TPWD Angler Education

4/13/2024 – TPWD Angler Education Instructor Certification

When: 04/13/2024 10:30 AM, CST
Where: 451 Guadalupe St, Kerrville Tex 78028

EVENT DETAILS:

SATURDAY April 13 – Immediately Follows this Month’s Club Meeting

Be a TPWD Certified Angler Education Instructor

Arrive by 10:30 am, Saturday April 13, 2024

The Texas Parks and Wildlife Department is graciously providing their TPWD ANGLER EDUCATION INSTRUCTOR CERTIFICATION PROGRAM to our club on April 13, immediately following the THCFF Club Meeting.  

Learn how the Angler Education Program benefits fishing

This comprehensive one day seminar will cover three major aspects of Angler Education. Participants who complete this training will be “TPWD Certified Angler Education Instructors.” 

Pats Rubber Legs

Jiggly Pat's | Fly Tyer

Jiggly Pat’s

by Tim Flagler

In doing research for this article, I was rather shocked to find out that Pat Bennett didn’t invent his Pat’s Rubber Legs until 1995. The pattern is so ubiquitous, particularly in the western United States, I thought it’d been around for at least fifty years. The research also revealed there had been predecessors to it, principally the Girdle Bug.

Mr. Bennett came up with what most people now know as the Pat’s Rubber Legs while fishing in Island Park, Idaho. It’s a somewhat simple affair that’s often tied heavy with considerable wraps of lead or lead-free wire. This is beneath a usually coffee and black chenille body with black or brown Flexi-Floss legs, antennae and tails protruding outward. Mr. Bennett designed the pattern to imitate a stonefly, which it does admirably, but many consider it to be a general attractor pattern.

As is the case with other fly patterns, tiers, myself included, have come up with a multitude of variations over the years. For me, getting to this pattern, the Jiggly Pat’s, has been an evolutionary process. Of course I started out tying a pretty standard Pat’s. The Flexi-Floss legs, however, kind of threw me. I found them to be a bit unruly and they ended up pointing in random directions on the finished fly, not my favorite look.

Because of this, I swapped the Flexi-Floss for small-sized black round rubber legs. These I find offer more movement and greater consistency between individual flies. I also added a tungsten bead, for additional weight and to give the fly a round, somewhat broad head, similar to stonefly naturals. While I was at it, I separated the fly into an abdominal section of coffee and black chenille and a thorax of picked-out chocolate brown Aussie Possum. Of course the thorax needed a wing case, which I produced with pheasant tail fibers and UV cure resin. And, oh yeah, I trimmed the chenille to gently taper and flatten the body. I call the pattern the “Pat’s Plus” and pretty much fish it as opposed to an original Pat’s.

The third step in the evolutionary process is called the “Get It Down Pat’s”. It’s tied on a jig hook and features a tungsten bead, the same round rubber legs as it’s predecessor but a kind of unique extended body of furled chenille. The idea was to create a Pat’s that would be less likely to get snagged on the bottom, hence the jig hook which typically rides more hook point up than a traditional J hook. Also, I ‘ve found short-shanked hooks tend to lose less fish than longer-shanked ones, for me anyway.

The Jiggly Pat’s is the most recent step in the evolutionary process . . notice how I didn’t say final. It’s for all intents and purposes a Get It Down Pat’s but with an articulated abdomen that’s free to move up, down and sideways with the slightest bit of motion from the fly or the current. Some have suggested leaving the hook bend on the trailing section but I prefer not to, as unhooking two hooks is always more difficult than one.

Link to video on how to tie this fly

Jiggly Pat’s Recipe:

Rear Hook:                Lightning Strike NH7, size 10.
Thread:                      UTC 140 Denier, black.
Body:                          Variegated chenille, medium, black/coffee.
Tails:                          Round rubber legs, small, black.
Front Hook:               JF2 jig hook, size 10.
Bead:                         Slotted tungsten, 5/32”, black nickel.
Thread:                      UTC 140 Denier, black.
Weight:                      Lead-free wire, .020.
Articulation joint:       8-pound test leader material (Maxima Chameleon).
Body:                          Variegated chenille, medium, black/coffee.
Legs:                          Round rubber legs, small, black.

New Braunfels Fly Fishers supports 2024 GRTU Trout Youth Camp

NEW BRAUNFELS FLY FISHERS SUPPORT GRTU TROUT YOUTH CAMP

The New Braunfels Fly Fishers provided the GRTU Trout Youth Camp participants a gift bag of fly fishing accessories for the third year.  The bag’s contents included forceps, nippers, zingers, tippet, leader, a fly box and an assortment of flies.  The majority of the flies were tied by individual members and the New Braunfels Fly Fishers fly tying group.  Special thanks to Umpqua for providing the tippet and leaders and Action Angler for facilitating the purchase of the other items.

Pictured above are Colten Simmons, Youth Camp participant; Ron DeMeyer, NBFF and Darren Simmons, Colten’s father.

 

Fine tippets are rarely needed

Hatch Magazine

 6x, 7x, or god forbid 8x. Fine tippets are rarely needed and even more rarely advised. It’s time to stop the tiny tippet nonsense.

Let's stop the tiny tippet nonsense

One of the more unfortunate fads in fly fishing is the perceived need to cast to and hook trout with what amounts to micro tippet. Granted, today’s monofilament and fluorocarbon technology is pretty stellar, and 18 inches of 7x tippet is stronger now than it was even a decade ago. It’s still overkill.

Surely, the you must use light tippet to catch my trout crowd will rebut me in the comments section. That’s fine. You might, indeed, need to cast a size 24 RS2 on 7x tippet over a finicky Henry’s Fork rainbow in order to get a look. And, sure, that fish probably sees a dozen different RS2 patterns on any given October day, meaning, of course, that it’s the tippet that makes all the difference, right? Uh-huh.

When and if you do hook up, a two-foot-long rainbow on 7x tippet is going to tire and come dangerously close to exhaustion before even the most-skilled angler can bring that fish to hand. Again, I’ll check the comments section later to read the, “Nuh-uh! I catch and release big trout on 7x tippet all the time!” missives.

My point is this. Sure. You might be able to do it. You might be able to entice the strike and ethically play the fish to hand without having to spend 10 minutes keeping the fish alive before you release it with a little hope and a “good luck, buddy.” But you are the exception, not the rule. On that, we must agree.

A quarter of a century ago, when I moved to Idaho, a well-respected local angler preached to the local fly fishing club that 3x tippet should be the baseline tippet for most anglers. Were there exceptions? Certainly. But, he said, if you continue to go lighter and lighter, you need to come to grips with the fact that you’re going to kill fish—or just break a lot of them off.

Feel free to share your theoretical fly-fishing algebra, but you absolutely do more harm to trout, particularly big trout, when you try to land them on wispy tippet. It’s just not strong enough to allow for a quick fight and a quick release — which should be the ultimate goal of any trout angler in the time of hoot-owl closures, low stream flows, 72-degree rivers and triple-digit days.

Want to be a real hero? Size up to a 4x stretch of tippet and see if you can make the perfect presentation—and perfect very often means that the trout sees your fly before the tippet, anyway. If you hook up, you’ll be doing the trout a favor in the process. A shorter fight means the fish is fresher when you point its face into the current. It might survive the fight of its life and, just maybe, live to hit another size 24 midge.

And, if you think you should go with lighter tippet when you’re fishing smaller water for smaller trout, think again. Small-stream trout generally live in more austere environments. They’re much more opportunistic and, with a few exceptions, anything but “leader shy.”

If you’re chasing foot-long cutthroats or eight-inch brookies, fight the urge to tie 6x tippet to your 4x leader. It’s unnecessary and, should you happen upon a nice trout that pushes your 3-weight fly rod to its limits, you’ll have enough strength in your string to land the fish and see it off safely.

About 10 years ago, I simply stopped buying 6x and 7x tippet. I will occasionally use 5x tippet, but very rarely. And only when I absolutely have to go deep — like when I’m Euro-nymphing, for instance — will I use fluorocarbon leaders or tippets. That stuff lasts forever, and once it’s in the water, it’s there for the long haul.

The new challenge, rather than trying to see how many trophy trout you can land on skinny leaders and tippets, should be settling on a number that’s good for you and good for the trout. For many, that’s 4x. For me, 3x tippet is still my baseline (see tips Nos. 120 and 121 in the Little Black Book of Fly fishing).

With 3x, I can turn over big hoppers and stonefly patterns, and it’s not so vividly visible during an October baetis hatch that it prohibits the occasional rise. Hell, on smaller water, it’ll even work for small streamers.

The new “give them a break” mentality when it comes to our trout should extend beyond the “keep ‘em wet” mantra and the pledge to stop fishing when water temperatures hit a certain threshold. It should extend to our tackle and our technique.

Go bigger on your tippet. Be a hero and release your next big trout with a fighting chance.